Here is where that fancy level/straightedge/yardstick/coffeemaker will come in handy.
We established earlier what distance the hooks we are nailing into the wall are going to be separated. Set your level on the TOTAL HEIGHT line and, if your hook spread is 20", measure out 10" each direction from center. If you don't have a combination level/yardstick, place a regular yardstick on the line and set a level on top of it. The important thing is to measure out half the distance each way from center. Make small pencil line "crosshairs" at these points.
Interestingly, this is not where the nails are going to go into the wall.

The nails supplied with your hooks will actually be driven into the wall exactly 1" above the crosshair line you made so the wire on the back of the frame will rest where your measurement intended. You won't need to make that small 1" measurement, just set the base of the hook even with your pencil line and hold in place while you nail. The most important aspect of this type of hook, which is designed to attach to sheet rock material (you won't need that stud finder), is that the nail MUST be hammered into the wall at the steepest angle the hardware will allow. This angle creates a wedge that would require an excessive downward weight load to pull it from the wall. You would be surprised how much weight can be supported this way. Never hammer the nail straight into the wall as this creates no wedge at all and pulls out easily.

Install both hooks into the wall and with some help, lift and place the frame wire on the hook tabs making sure the wire is securely seated before letting the frame rest.
You've done it!
Now set your level on a flat section of the frame moulding and adjust it left or right until it is level. Pull the bottom of the frame away from the wall a few inches and let it fall back to the wall. This will let it find its natural balance. Check for level again and adjust is necessary. Congratulations on a job well done!

Return to "Tips For Hanging Framed Art" part 1



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